Buffalo Trace’s sister distillery has produced the best whiskey of the year so far

The jewel of the Sazerac empire is obviously Buffalo Trace, the Kentucky distillery where whiskey brands like Pappy Van Winkle, Antique Collection, Eagle Rare and EH Taylor are produced. But travel east to Virginia and you’ll find the company’s A. Smith Bowman Distillery, the Old Dominion State’s oldest operation, which also quietly produces excellent whiskey. I wasn’t sure what to expect from the new Abraham Bowman Oak Series release, but I’ll be damned if it’s not the best whiskey I’ve tasted in the first half of 2024.

At least some of the whiskey produced at A. Smith Bowman is initially distilled in Kentucky at Buffalo Trace (or another Sazerac distillery) using its mashbills, then shipped to Virginia for a third distillation at the A. Smith Bowman facility. Fredericksburg. This is an unusual process that you don’t see very often, but Sazerac has clearly figured out how to make it work. According to a distillery representative, this was the case with the French oak, which was redistilled and barreled at A. Smith Bowman in 2012 and aged for 12 years in both charred and uncharred French oak barrels. They won’t disclose the mashbill, but the reason it’s called whiskey and not bourbon is because it wasn’t exclusively aged in new charred oak.

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These details are interesting, but the most important thing is the taste of this whiskey, and it is delicious. The aim of this series, as the name makes clear, is to explore the influence of wood on whiskey as it matures, something Buffalo Trace has also done with its Old Charter Oak range. The Spanish oak version in this collection was a little overwhelming, but this French oak expression from Bowman is deep in color and flavor without going overboard. The nose features rich notes of cherry, grape and vanilla, with a woody, buttery nuance. These berry and fruit flavors continue on the palate, accompanied by notes of oak, custard, honey, brown sugar, maple and black pepper. The palate veers toward the sweeter side of the spectrum, but it’s bright and complex and never cloying. According to head distiller David Bock, using different types of barrels was key. “When blended, the vanilla from the charless barrels helps balance the peppery notes from the charred barrels,” he said in a statement, “creating a dynamic and delicious blend.” I no longer silk.

Some whiskey makers estimate that up to 70 percent of the flavor comes from the barrel, making this type of effort more than just a marketing tool. But there’s no doubt that this whiskey would have tasted very different if it had been aged in Chinkapin or Mizunara oak instead of French oak – and who knows, those might be on the A. Smith Bowman register ( but please, no amburana, I am begging you). Bottom line, this whiskey is fantastic and you should go get a bottle now… which might be a little difficult as the online lottery to get one is now closed. But if you see this whiskey on the secondary market for anywhere near its $100 asking price, you should definitely buy it.

Rating: 99

• 100 It’s worth trading your firstborn for

• 95 – 99 At the Pantheon: A trophy for the cabinet

• 90 – 94 Great: An enthusiastic nod from friends when you pour them a drink.

• 85 – 89 Very good: Delicious enough to buy, but not special enough to seek out on the secondary market

• 80 – 84 Good: More of your everyday drinker, solid and reliable

• Below 80 It’s OK: Honestly, we probably won’t waste your time and ours on this

Every week, Jonah Flicker tastes the best and most interesting whiskeys in the world. Check back every Friday for his latest review.

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